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   The 
    Best 907 Engine Modifications  
    
      An overview   
        It 
        is a great myth that rebuilding the Lotus 907 engine found in the Jensen 
        Healey is unduly and excessively expensive. In the U.S. a home mechanic 
        can do a reasonable, stock rebuild for around $2,500. Aftermarket, forged 
        pistons will save you a lot of money- in my opinion, the only way to go. 
        If you live in England then you'll pay more, everything in England costs 
        more, but it's still not that bad. The Lotus power plant is the heart 
        and soul of the Jensen Healey and in my opinion well suited for some minor 
        performance enhancements. But keep in mind that these improvements are, 
        for the most part, recommended for engines that are being rebuilt or that 
        are in good condition. You'll see little benefit from strapping on new 
        parts to that old, tired lump if a complete rebuild is due. 
         
        The original 140 horse power Lotus 907 engine provided some exciting motoring 
        when the Jensen Healey was introduced. It was a huge improvement over 
        other British cars of the time and it's 16 valve engine was years ahead 
        of other production cars. However, you would be amazed at what an additional 
        40 to 50 HP provides as it completely transforms the car. If you have 
        the inclination, the time and the resources, it's an upgrade that's well 
        worth the investment. 
   Reusable camshaft cover 
        gaskets    
        Ease your 
        pain, end the burning-oil-on-the-exhaust-manifold syndrome. These handy 
        gaskets are relatively easy to install and fix a major design flaw. You 
        do need to clean out the threaded bolt housings thoroughly before installing 
        or they will not work. Only US $26 from the Club 
        Store. 
        Oversized stainless steel 
        exhaust valves    
        Don't 
        ever burn another exhaust valve. The 907 is famous for trashing them. 
        Get out of the victim cycle with a set of eight. Originally built for 
        motorcycles, our favorite Jensen Healey cylinder head shop (West Coast 
        Racing Head Services in Reseda, California) sources these out of Florida 
        and modifies the stem lengths. Not cheap at US$25 each, but a sound investment 
        and much better than the original Lotus part which is constructed from 
        a less durable stainless alloy.
        Higher compression pistons 
           
        Sure, you can help support Lotus Development and spend US$650 a hole for 
        new Hepolite piston & liner assemblies, but why? In the U.S., and around 
        the world, JE 
        Pistons are the hot tip. Get them .035 oversized and have the worn 
        liners bored to match. Expect to pay $30-$70 per liner for boring. These 
        are forged, not cast like the Hepolites, expansion is almost the same. 
        Check with manufacturer's specs about bore size. I use 9.5:1 compression 
        for my everyday Jensen Healey. The finest money can buy, a set of four 
        runs about US$570 including wrist pins from the Club Store. 
        Camshafts   
         Unlike 
        many other engines, by virtue of its design, you can run fairly high-lift 
        cams in the 907 engine before it becomes undrivable. I advise prudence 
        with camshafts unless you only plan on driving your car on weekends or 
        to the races. Hot cams turn fuel economy into a dream and make hydrocarbons 
        go up as well. The 
        Lotus 107 camshafts are good, peppy camshafts for street use and won't 
        pound your stock valve train into oblivion prematurely. Great for under 
        5,500 RPM. If you are looking for a high horsepower, streetable 907 engine, 
        then the "104" cams are the way to go. New springs required.  
       JH Guru, Garry 
        Kemps comments on the 104 cams: "Personally I think the 104 is quite 
        a good cam: not particularly in a 2 litre and especially a low compression 
        engine but if they are in a 2.2 with decent compression (10+) they are 
        perfectly easy to get along with. I have seen in the states a bit of confusion 
        about what a 104 exactly is: it should be 272 degrees (at 10thou lash) 
        and 0.415" lift. I think there may be a few reprofiles around purporting 
        to be a 104 but really are just something "close enough". The 
        107 is a good all rounder but it does tend to run out of breath around 
        5500rpm : It'll pull up to 7000rpm OK but really its starting to lose 
        its edge after 5500 (in a 2.2 anyway). The 104 however will pull clean 
        and strong to 7000 rpm, it comes alive at about 3-4000 rpm but that's 
        not to say there's nothing below that, It'll tick over just fine at 900rpm 
        and is totally docile to use in traffic." 
        
  2.2 Litre Crankshaft  
          
        If you 
        want the fast street motor to keep up with modern iron on the road, a 
        stoker crank is a must. More torque means more power and we all like that. 
        Upgrading the 907 engine to the later 2.2 configuration in congunction 
        with a complete upgrade (higher 
        profile cams, higher compression pistons and 45mm Dellortos) 
        will result in a very pleasant, streetable, 200 plus horse 
        power engine. We recommend the reworked 2.2 cast, Vauxhall / Bedford crankshafts. 
        They're good up to 7000 rpm and are manufactured to the same standards 
        as the original crank found in the 907 engine. A 2.2 crank in your Lotus 
        907 engine can make your Jensen Healey or Jensen GT the smooth, fast road 
        car it was meant to be.
       Lotus / Jensen Healey Engine 
        Main and Rod Bearings   
        Vandervell, 
        the original supplier to Lotus for their engine bearings is no longer 
        producing for the 907 engine. What's left in stock is crazy expensive- 
        +.20 rods are running about $250 and +.10 mains $360 per set! It's totally 
        out of control. The answer? Engine bearings made for a Holden 2 or 2.2 
        liter motor. We've sourced high quality trimetal copper-lead (the same 
        or better than original), main and rod bearings from the manufacturer 
        in Tasmaina, Australia. Technical notes: The new bearings do not drop 
        in and do need minor modification (this is how they avoid Lotus infringement 
        lawsuits in the UK). The 1, 2, 4, 5, main bearings have nips that are 
        slightly wider than the old Vandervell's and your block will need some 
        minor filing. The center #3 main bearing has the nip on the opposite side 
        so a small intent will need to filed on the other side, but both these 
        things should be quite easy to do yourself. I've done it in 30 minutes. 
        Adjustable Camshaft Gears 
           
        The newer 
        style half moon tooth belt is a must have for any big time performance 
        engine. A belt/gear set will set you back about US$900 (these have gotten 
        real expensive the last few years) but the piece of mind you get from 
        that heavy duty belt makes it something to consider. Positive grip prevents 
        belt jumping and improves torque off the crankshaft (dyno tests indicate 
        an extra two bhp). An added bonus, the belts last much longer (I change 
        mine at 40,000 mile intervals) and replacements now run about US$50 for 
        the quality US made version.  
        Multiple Spark Discharge 
           
        The MSD (Multiple Spark Discharge) 
        ignition control unit installs easily. Its' wires just plug onto extended 
        coil adaptors provided and the power lead. Takes only seconds to convert 
        back to stock configuration. Unit provides instant starts and better fuel 
        burning characteristics for better power and cleaner running throughout 
        the rpm range. Save your engine, over 80% of engine wear is attributable 
        to cold start cranking. I run mine with the stock distributor and points. 
        Points last about 40,000 miles and no reliability problems that many people 
        have with electronic ignition systems. I originally used this on a engine 
        that was only running on 2 1/2 cylinders for a few months and it actually 
        make the car drivable (it did get bad gas milage). For my money, the best 
        single improvement you can make on your engine. Smog legal in California. 
        Usually available from "performance" type auto-parts stores. The MSD Model 
        6a runs about$140, check around for best pricing. 
        
        Here are possible fixes-  
        1. Switch out your stock ballast resistor for a generic Chysler/Dodge 
        (part no. 3874767) ballast resistor or aftermarket Borg Warner (part no. 
        RUE 1) ballast resistor, also refered to as a coil resistor, about $5 
        at your local auto parts store, (as recommended in the MSD Manual). This 
        doesn't always work well and has different effects on each Jensen Healey. 
        In my case it works fine. 
         
        2. Purchase the MSD Tach Adapter for about $80. 
        NOTE: 
        The addition of the MSD will likely render your electric Smiths tach nonfunctional. 
        MSD offers a tach adaptor, which seems to work on some cars but not others. 
        Before purchasing an MSD Tach Adapter I recommend you contact the MSD 
        Tech Department and inquire about your car.  
         
        3. A permanent fix- send your tach to a place like North 
        Hollywood Speedometer and have the Smiths tach updated with an internal 
        circuit board that works with the MSD. A great fix that looks stock, about 
        $150, and a possible way to go if your speedo is tired and needs rebuilding 
        anyway. 
      
  Pertronix Ignitor  
         
         Favored 
        by many racers, the Pertronix Ignitor (formerly Per-Lux) is robust and 
        well constructed (quality made in the USA) with a model built specifically 
        for the 25D Lucas distributor used in the Jensen Healey (Model LU142). 
        It replaces the old-fashioned points and condensor for a reliable magnetic 
        "trigger". Never change those damn points again! Everything fits cleanly 
        and neatly inside the distributor housing, no unsightly external electric 
        box is needed as with the Crane-Allison brand electronic ignition- not 
        my favorite set-up (most of these seem to be improperly installed). If 
        you have an MSD, you don't need another electronic box on the car anyway. 
        The Pertronix Ignitor is a "stand alone" component and you'll notice improvement 
        over stock points even without the addition of an MSD unit. The Ignitor 
        is immune to dirt, oil, heat and moisture and switches twice the energy 
        of conventional systems. 
  Dellorto Carburetors 
          
        The U.S. 
        spec Strombergs are hard working, reliable units. They last for ages, 
        are resonably easy to rebuild and return great fuel economy. But the true 
        believers go with Dellortos. Looks alone should convert you. Not only 
        that, they run cleaner than the Strombergs and offer a performance edge 
        over the Federal fuel system. We all know that port on port carburetion 
        is superior. The 40mm pair that came on the non-Federal Jensen Healeys 
        works nicely, but the 45mm's offer an even greater performance edge. Dealers 
        like Richard Appleyard in the UK can make you a deal on a used set that's 
        rejetted properly with a second-hand manifold in the $1,000 range or check 
        the Club Store to see what's in stock. Dave Bean Engineering is selling 
        Weber kits at about US$1,800, the webers will always produce a mid-range 
        flat spot on the 907 engine that's almost impossible to eliminate, so 
        I prefer the improved Dellortos anyday and would skip the Webers on the 
        Lotus 907. 
       Lightened flywheel  
          
        Lighten 
        the original boat anchor? The really cool Tilton aluminum 7 pounder is 
        long gone these days. Other possible models can be had. The aluminum flywheel 
        Improves acceleration, especially from a dead stop. Consider this with 
        an overall engine upgrade package. A less costly alternative is a lightened 
        steel (stock) flywheel. Talk to your local machine shop and see what they 
        can do- realistically you won't be able to get this below 19 pounds without 
        some risk that it may blow apart during use. The aluminum flywheel will 
        make your pedal a little touchy, but well within most owners level of 
        tolerance for weekend and around town use. The stock flywheel is heavy 
        for a reason- it makes the engine run smoother at high RPM. If you're 
        building a go-fast engine and must have an light flywheel you will need 
        to take care and get a precision balance of the bottom end (which I recommend 
        on any kind of rebuild anyway). 
       Oil Pressure  
         
         Not normally 
        a problem for street Jensen Healeys, but a real issue for track racers 
        is the 907 engine oil pressure problem. More commonly seen during long, 
        hard, sweeping turns when a slight drop in pressure will be noticed. Severe 
        and extended high RPM use can turn this unnoticable problem into a oil 
        starvation issue with unexpected and expensive results. Track use will 
        create another set of problems as the 907 engine does not have the beefed 
        up bottom end seen on the 912 engine. There are several inexpensive fixes; 
        restrict oil flow to the head is the most effective and hinging the restrictor 
        baffles in the sump also can help. A strenghening plate will be the most 
        effective item you can install to make the 907 engine bullet proof on 
        the track. See an excellent 
        in-depth article about 907 oil circulation problems and cures for performance 
        engines here. 
        
     
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